Oil painting supports
Stretched canvas is a very popular option for pet portrait artists as a support for their paintings. All the same, there are alternative supports that can be just as worthy when you don’t have any canvases to hand. Wood has traditionally be used as a support for oils and indeed, is one of the earliest forms of support for painting. But what is the best type to go for? Your choice will make a difference on how long your painting will survive the rigours of the atmosphere. Here is a list of wood products and their suitability as a support for your paintings.
Natural Wood
Oil paint can, over time, get quite brittle and any movement in the support due to changes in temperature or moisture levels can cause the paint surface to crack. Natural wood is especially vulnerable to this, so some precautions should be taken before using it as a support.
First off, whatever the wood, it must be very well seasoned, as any sap or moisture left in the wood will cause the panel to shrink as it dries out. The grain should be straight and without knots or signs of decomposition. To stop warping, smaller panels need to be of a decent thickness, bigger panels will need to be cradled. Cradling involves fixing a couple of batons on the back, across the grain, which should run along the longest length of the panel. Ideally, these fixings should allow for a small amount of movement, as wood will expand and contract with changes in temperature and a panel that is too rigidly cradled may split across it’s width.
The best natural woods to use tend to be hardwoods, well seasoned mahogany being best of the bunch. Walnut is an effective option, but can be attacked by woodworm. Oak, ash, beech, elm and chestnut are all satisfactory supports if well prepared. Maple has a tendency to warp.
Plywood
This has great strength and stability, but is inclined to warp badly. Better quality plywood with a least five layers should be OK on small panels and on larger ones with cradling. The best ones will be made with veneers from the mahogany family.
Blockboard
Block board is similar to plywood though it has a more solid centre made from batons. This produces a panel less likely to warp than plywood but not as strong. Also, it does tend to be made from poorer quality glues and veneers. It also can be rather heavy in relation to it’s size.
Chipboard
This can also be known as particle board. This type of panel is pretty strong with good stability. Exposed edges can be easily damaged and it also is quite a heavy product, particularly with large panels.
Hardboard
This is made with compressed wood pulp, has one smooth surface and a rough textured reverse side. It is a light, flexible and a stable support, but it’s the flexibility will mean smaller pieces will require good preperation and larger pieces would, ideally, need to be mounted onto a frame. Bonding two sheets together back to back would also create a better panel. If you use the shiny side to paint on, it will need to be sanded to give a tooth for the ground.
MDF
Medium density fibreboard (MDF) is made in the same way as hardboard, but is made of thicker sheets, creating a stronger board that is less likely to warp. The surface is not as smooth as hardboard, so accepts grounds very well. On balance, this is perhaps the best type of rigid support available for the pet portrait artist.